Putting the Chardonnay to Bed

The middle of spring brought with it a welcome milestone in our cellar: our vintage 2025 Chardonnay finished malolactic fermentation. It’s not a flashy moment in the winemaking calendar, but it’s a significant one. What happens during this process irreversibly shapes the structure of every bottle of Patz & Hall.

Photo: Jimmy Hayes

What Malolactic Fermentation Really Does

Every Patz & Hall wine goes through malolactic fermentation, though Chardonnay always takes longer than our Pinot Noirs to get there. That lag creates real anxiety in the cellar. Young wines can’t be protected by sulfur while they’re still going through conversion, which leaves them exposed longer to oxidation, volatile acidity, and other threats longer than we’d like them to be. Most years there are a handful of stubborn late finishers among the barrels. This year, everything cooperated on schedule.

Acids in unfermented grape juice are typically a quarter malic acid and three quarters tartaric. Traditional Chardonnay winemaking calls for the conversion of malic acid to lactic acid. The organism doing the work is the bacteria, Oenococcus oeni. Malic acid is the sharp, green-apple tartness. Lactic acid is softer, closer to what you find in dairy. The conversion rounds out the palate and adds a subtle creaminess to the texture.

Why Butter Ain’t The Goal

One byproduct of this process is diacetyl, which is the compound behind that buttered popcorn aroma you find in some Chardonnays. Some wineries actively pursue it. We do not. We seek to showcase vineyard and vintage rather than a flavor profile. If you give the bacteria time, they will metabolize the diacetyl on their own, and the butteriness fades. It’s all about patience and that old friend, intestinal fortitude.

What Comes Next

Malolactic fermentation has been complete for well over a month, and now the wines will continue aging in barrel before bottling in February 2027. We’ll keep you posted on their development.

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James McCeney

James McCeney is Patz & Hall's Director of Winemaking. Very confusingly, he is one of two James' overseeing winemaking on our team. With experience gained in France, New Zealand, and Australia, along with winemaking stints at several domestic wineries, including Lewis Cellars, Donum, and Acacia, he brings a stellar palate, refined winemaking skills, and a passion for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to the team. A native of Baltimore, he is in the final stages of receiving his Master of Wine title, having passed the tasting portion of the certification. He spends his time outside of Patz & Hall with his wife, two children, and various (some say quixotic) home renovation projects.